Corvette Convertible Top Frame Assembly Complete With Top Installed 61 62 / 1961-1962 / ( #E15972 ) COMPLETE NEW 1961-1962 C1 CORVETTE SOFTTOP – NOT CUSTOMER FURNISHED! INCLUDES: NEW CANVAS, PADS, FRONT LATCHES, REAR SWING ARM LATCHES, WEATHER STRIP, BUSHINGS, HARDWARE, TACK STRIPS & COMPLETE POWDER COAT FINISH.PLEASE NOTE. HARDTOP ONLY CARS REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING ADDITIONAL PARTS TO. Weatherstrip Installation. Fasteners & Related. Convertible Top Rear Bow, 1961-1975. Corvette Soft Top Weatherstrip Fastener Kit, 50 Pieces, 1968-1975. 1961-62 Corvette Convertible Soft Top Frame. To convert a hard top only 'Born' Corvette - includes Everything for accurate installation. This is the all inclusive kit of Everything to convert a hard top only (born) Corvette to a 2 Top Corvette. 6 piece mounting plate kit and front and rear latches etc. INcluding the new Vinyl top-pads-straps kit (white or black). Refer to photos.
Top of the column. If this method will not work for your car Ididit or Flaming River makes a complete steering column for the early Corvette. Preparing the 9' Ford housing for installation: Before painting or powder coating mask off the face of the housing and the bearing surfaces, this will save a fair amount of time in the next step. Fallout 4 child mods. '63-'75 CORVETTE CONVERTIBLE TOP INSTALLATION - Page2. Glad you're still with us. As you can see its a little involved. Years ago we used to do a simple top replacement in one day. The pads and straps back then were only five or six years old and didn't warrant replacement. Today its a top restoration and usually takes us three to four days to.
A freshened rear design was the most pronounced externalchange for the 1961 Corvette, a kind of 'ducktail' design that hadbeen lifted virtually intact from Mitchell's Stingray racer and also used onhis XP-700 show car. Besides improved aesthetics, the new posterior brought apractical bonus: luggage space (such as it was) increased by around 20 percent.The new tail also sported a pair of small round taillamps on each side of thecentral license-plate recess, plus a modest longitudinal trunklid creaselinerunning through the traditional, big, round Corvette medallion. Simple chromebumperettes bracketed the license plate, which itself gained a small'arch' bumper. And for the first time, the dual exhausts exited belowthe body rather than through it or the bumper guards.
The 1961 Corvette had a shapely new 'ducktail' that mated nicely with the existing four-lamp front. |
Carrying a base price of $3,934, standard features nowincluded windshield washers, sunvisors, a thermostatically controlled radiatorfan, and a parking-brake warning light. A heater was still optional for 1961,however, priced at $102.25. While air conditioning, power steering, and powerbrakes still weren't offered, the 'Wonder Bar' signal-seeking AMradio remained available, as did the Positraction limited-slip differential,'wide' whitewall tires, electric windows, and the power-operated top.Nearly three-quarters of all Corvette customers that year gladly paid $188.30for the four-speed manual transmission, which was now clad in aluminum,trimming 15 pounds from the car's heft.
Within the two-seat cockpit, the only change for 1961 was anarrower transmission tunnel that afforded a bit more interior room. Fourinterior color schemes were available: black, red, fawn, and blue.
The 1961 Corvette had a cleaner look that was appreciated by buyers -- sales rose to nearly 11,000 for the model year. |
Even with the mildest 283 and Powerglide, the 1961 Corvettewas quick by any standard: Magazine testers recorded 0-60-mph accelerationbetween 6.7 and 7.7 seconds. Top speed with the automatic was listed at 109 mphand was limited mainly by gearing. The four speed lacked the long-leggedoverdrive ratio of most modern five-speed manuals, yet many of thefuel-injected and twin four-barrel models could reach in excess of 130 mph.
Although Corvette didn't yet have an independent rearsuspension like some costlier European models, this didn't seem to hurt thevehicle on either the street or the track. Testers sang the praises of the 1961's handling virtues, and almost none of them discerned any particulardeficiencies. By the standards of that day, the Corvette was now one of themost roadworthy cars in the world.
Learn about other Corvettes in this generation:
1953 Corvette | 1954 Corvette | 1955 Corvette |
1956 Corvette | 1957 Corvette | 1958 Corvette |
1959 Corvette | 1960 Corvette | 1961 Corvette |
1962 Corvette |
Looking for more information on Corvettes and other cars? See:
- Corvettes: Learn about the history behind each model year and see Corvette photographs.
- Corvette Specifications: Get keyspecifications, engine and transmission types, prices, and productiontotals.
- Corvette Museum: The National Corvette Museum draws Corvette lovers from all over the world. Learn more about the museum.
- Corvette Pictures: Find pictures of the hottest classic and current-year Corvettes.
- Muscle Cars: Get information on more than 100 tough-guy rides.
- Consumer Guide Corvette Reviews: Considering a Corvette purchase? See what Consumer Guide has to say.
C6 Corvette: How To Replace Convertible Top | Corvetteforum
Advertisement
Advertisement
Small changes gave the 1961 Corvette a cleaner look and reduced weight. It was quick and powerful, with an official top speed of 109 mph (though many could reach in excess of 130 mph). Here are the specifications for the 1961 Corvette:
The three-speed manual gearbox was standard on the 1961 Corvette, but was offered with a wider choice of axle ratios. |
Vehicle Specifications | Convertible |
Wheelbase, inches | 102.0 |
Length, inches | 176.7 |
Width, inches | 70.4 |
Track, inches | front: 57.0 rear: 59.0 |
Height, inches | 52.9 |
Curb Weight, pounds | 3,108 |
Mechanical Specifications (2-door convertible)
Suspension
front:Independent; upper and lower A-arms, unequal-length wishbones, coil springs, antiroll bar, tubular hydraulic shock absorbers
rear: Live axle on semi-elliptic leaf springs, tubular hydraulic shock absorbers, trailing radius rods
Wheels/Tires
6.70x15
Brakes
front: 11-inch drum
rear: 11-inch drum
Transmission
3-speed manual (std)
4-speed manual (opt)
2-speed Powerglide (opt)
Standard axle ratio
3.70:1
Engine Specifications
Although Corvette didn't yet have an independent rearsuspension like some costlier European models, this didn't seem to hurt thevehicle on either the street or the track. Testers sang the praises of the 1961's handling virtues, and almost none of them discerned any particulardeficiencies. By the standards of that day, the Corvette was now one of themost roadworthy cars in the world.
Learn about other Corvettes in this generation:
1953 Corvette | 1954 Corvette | 1955 Corvette |
1956 Corvette | 1957 Corvette | 1958 Corvette |
1959 Corvette | 1960 Corvette | 1961 Corvette |
1962 Corvette |
Looking for more information on Corvettes and other cars? See:
- Corvettes: Learn about the history behind each model year and see Corvette photographs.
- Corvette Specifications: Get keyspecifications, engine and transmission types, prices, and productiontotals.
- Corvette Museum: The National Corvette Museum draws Corvette lovers from all over the world. Learn more about the museum.
- Corvette Pictures: Find pictures of the hottest classic and current-year Corvettes.
- Muscle Cars: Get information on more than 100 tough-guy rides.
- Consumer Guide Corvette Reviews: Considering a Corvette purchase? See what Consumer Guide has to say.
C6 Corvette: How To Replace Convertible Top | Corvetteforum
Advertisement
Advertisement
Small changes gave the 1961 Corvette a cleaner look and reduced weight. It was quick and powerful, with an official top speed of 109 mph (though many could reach in excess of 130 mph). Here are the specifications for the 1961 Corvette:
The three-speed manual gearbox was standard on the 1961 Corvette, but was offered with a wider choice of axle ratios. |
Vehicle Specifications | Convertible |
Wheelbase, inches | 102.0 |
Length, inches | 176.7 |
Width, inches | 70.4 |
Track, inches | front: 57.0 rear: 59.0 |
Height, inches | 52.9 |
Curb Weight, pounds | 3,108 |
Mechanical Specifications (2-door convertible)
Suspension
front:Independent; upper and lower A-arms, unequal-length wishbones, coil springs, antiroll bar, tubular hydraulic shock absorbers
rear: Live axle on semi-elliptic leaf springs, tubular hydraulic shock absorbers, trailing radius rods
Wheels/Tires
6.70x15
Brakes
front: 11-inch drum
rear: 11-inch drum
Transmission
3-speed manual (std)
4-speed manual (opt)
2-speed Powerglide (opt)
Standard axle ratio
3.70:1
Engine Specifications
Type | ohv V-8 | ohv V-8 | ohv V-8 | ohv V-8 | ohv V-8 |
Displacement, liters/cu inch | 4.6/283 | 4.6/283 | 4.6/283 | 4.6/283 | 4.6/283 |
Bore x stroke, inches | 3.875 x 3.00 | 3.875 x 3.00 | 3.875 x 3.00 | 3.875 x 3.00 | 3.875 x 3.00 |
Fuel Management | 1 x 4-bbl. | 2 x 4-bbl. | 2 x 4-bbl. | fuel injection | fuel injection |
Horsepower @ rpm | 230 @ 4800 | 245 @ 5000 | 270 @ 6000 | 275 @ 5200 | 315 @ 6200 |
Torque @ rpm, pound-foot | 300 @ 3000 | 300 @ 3800 | 285 @ 4200 | 290 @ 4200 | 295 @ 5100 |
Published Performance Numbers
Acceleration | 230 hp, 4-sp man. | 315 hp, 4-sp man. |
0-60 mph, sec | 8.3 | 6.0 |
0-100 mph, sec | NA | 14.2 |
1/4-mile, sec @ mph | NA | 15.5 @ 106 |
Vehicle Production and Base Prices
Car Type | Production | Price |
2-door convertible | 10,934 | $3,934.00 |
Options and Production
Option | Production | Price |
Heater | 10,671 | $102.25 |
AM Radio, signal seeking | 9,316 | 137.75 |
Positive Crankcase Ventilation | NA | 5.40 |
Wheels, 15 x 5.5 | 337 | 0.00 |
Whitewall Tires, 6.70 x 15 | 9,780 | 31.55 |
Powerglide Automatic Transmission | 1,458 | 199.10 |
Auxiliary Hardtop | 5,680 | 236.75 |
Power Windows | 698 | 59.20 |
Two-Tone Paint | 3,351 | 16.15 |
245 hp Engine | 1,175 | 150.65 |
270 hp Engine | 2,827 | 182.95 |
275 hp Engine Fl | 118 | 484.20 |
315 hp Engine Fl | 1,462 | 484.20 |
Power Operated Folding Top | 442 | 161.40 |
Positraction Rear Axle | 6,915 | 43.05 |
4-speed Manual Transmission | 7,013 | 188.30 |
Metallic Brakes | 1,402 | 37.70 |
Heavy Duty Brakes and Suspension | 233 | 333.60 |
Blackwall Tires, 6.70 x 15 nylon | NA | 15.75 |
24 Gallon Fuel Tank | NA | 161.40 |
Color Choices and Production
More 1961 Corvette Soft Top Installation Images
Color Choice | Production | Color Choice | Production |
Tuxedo Black | 1,340 | Fawn Beige | 1,363 |
Honduras Maroon | 1,645 | Roman Red | 1,794 |
Ermine White | 3,178 | Sateen Silver | 747 |
Jewel Blue | 855 |
Learn about other Corvettes in this generation:
1953 Corvette | 1954 Corvette | 1955 Corvette |
1956 Corvette | 1957 Corvette | 1958 Corvette |
1959 Corvette | 1960 Corvette | 1961 Corvette |
1962 Corvette |
Looking for more information on Corvettes and other cars? See:
- Corvettes: Learn about the history behind each model year and see Corvette photographs.
- Corvette Specifications: Get keyspecifications, engine and transmission types, prices, and productiontotals.
- Corvette Museum: The National Corvette Museum draws Corvette lovers from all over the world. Learn more about the museum.
- Corvette Pictures: Find pictures of the hottest classic and current-year Corvettes.
- Muscle Cars: Get information on more than 100 tough-guy rides.
- Consumer Guide Corvette Reviews: Considering a Corvette purchase? See what Consumer Guide has to say.
Advertisement
Advertisement
Tricks Of The Trade |
Special tools needed: You'll need regular pliers, needle nose pliers, punch, single edged razor blade, screw drivers, small wrenches, and strong hands. Begin by first removing the wire-on molding just above the rear window. This molding covers a seam which is present on most convertible tops. The wire-on molding is folded front to back. First remove the stainless ends usually fastened by phillips screws (ill. 1). Unfold the wire-on molding and remove the staples securing it to the top bow. This is done using a sharp punch to pry up. Usually 1/2 of the staple separates fromthe bow. Use pliers, either regular or needle nose to finish the stapleremoval. Remove all the staples securing the top seam overlap after themolding has been removed. Removethe rear weatherstrip by first finding and removing the weatherstrip retainer wire embedded within the weatherstrip (ill. 2). The weatherstrip will easily pull off once the retainer wire is removed (ill. 3). The top fabric is fastened to the rear bow by a small welt or beading stiched into the fabric edge and tucked into a groove in the bow. Use a screw driver to untuck the top fabric from the rear bow(ill. 2). Removeall front weatherstrip which include front center, left and right corners. The center weatherstrip is secured by plastic push in studs embedded into the weatherstrip and spaced approximately six inches apart. Much care should be taken when desecuring the plastic studs from the bow (ill.5). The studs are t-shaped therefore pry them loose with a screw driver placed next to the stud. The corner weatherstrips are secured by two metal push in clips, one plastic push in clip, one phillips screw, and one threaded embedded steel stud. Pry the clips loose in the same manner used when removing the centerweather plastic studs (ill. 4). Unscrew the screw and removethe one nut on the back side of the side rail. Removethe front fabric molding staples, then the top fabric wrap aroundstaples(ill.5). The top is then fastened only by the sideverticle weatherstrip studs. The quick way to remove the side verticalweatherstrip is done using a single edge razor blade to slice the top materialfacilitating easy access to the weatherstrip stud nuts (ill.6).There are three nuts and washers that need to be removed. The old top isthen removed exposing the top pads (ill.7). The top padsand adjacent straps are replaced one at a time so as not to disturb existingtop bow alignment. Before changing pads and straps we must repair the existingfront bow rot. We were very surprised to find the extent of ruston the front bow as we did on this particular Corvette. In fact the entireframe of the car was in much better condition. The only explanation wecould surmize was that the top had been replaced once before many yearsago and the fabric wrapped around the front bow had been trimmed short,exposing a surface that we find typically covered by fabric. Since therust was isolated we weighed the cost factors involved in replacing thefront bow as compared with its repair. A new bow cost approximately $300.00and requires three or four hours for installation since their fit is notas good as one might expect. We estimated six to eight hours to repairthe existing bow not unlike the many we had repaired over the years priorto this replacement part's availability. The repair would result in a substantialsavings for the customer when considering our shop rate and no delay inprogress . Repairrusted front front bow by first grinding the rusted surface (ill. 7). The pitted areas are then ground using a die grinder (ill. 8). This process is similar to a dentist preparing a tooth for a filling. Sheet metal plates approximately .020 to .030 inch thick are then fabricated and fitted over the rotted areas (ill. 8). The repair plates are then mig welded in place (ill. 9). The welds are then ground flat and the entire repair area is also lightly ground in preparation for body filler application. Apply a light coat of body filler. Trim or cheese grade when half hard. Sand and shape the body filler as needed when completely cured (ill. 9). Installfront tack strip: The original tack strip, (what the top fabricstaples are secured to), usually survive. This is one of those rare timesthat require its replacement. Oddly enough the original tack strip fromthis car was in excellent shape but we opted to replace it with a woodenreplacement. The factory tack strip and the aftermarket reproduction aremade from a fiber board, paper-like material. We have found that a softwood replacement holds the staples better and will probably out live itsoriginal counter part. We discovered this process many years ago when noreplacement part was available. Download os x 10.11 el capitan. The wood we use is from a yard stick whichused to be given away free from most hardware store and lumber yards (ill.10). The yard stick is cut approximately 5/8 inch wide and a numberof pieces are cut to eight to ten inch lengths. The pieces are fitted andtrimmed as necessary. When satisfied with the overall fit they are bondedinto place using body filler. The factory tabs are then rebent over thenew tack strip (ill. 10). The entire header bar is then primedand painted gloss black lacquer. Checkthe dimensions and fit and orientation of the old pads and strapsbefore commiting to their replacement.We have found that old pads and strapsshrink a bit with age. It is not necessary to use a tape measureextensively for this procedure, rather a prefit of the new top will bestdetermine if any change in pad length is necessary. The critical item isthe location of the rear tack strip bow, (where the wire-on molding waspreviously secured). There is a chance that this bow crept forward slightlywith the aging pads. Install the new top with the rear edge wrapped aroundthe rear bow, which clamps to the car. Pull the material to the front bowand around the side vertical rails. The open seam of the new top shouldbe locating exactly over the rear tack strip bow. A close inspection ofthe ends, left and right, will show that this seam is comprised of two1/2 inch wide flaps that overlap each other. The point where they overlapwill be stapled to the rear tack strip so the staple point should locateprecisely over the middle of the tack strip (ill. 18). Youwill need to pull back on the rear tack strip bow while pulling forwardon the new top material to accurately check this fit. Begininstalling one new pad first. Check the distance between the tackstrip bow and the rear bow on the other side for reference (ill.12). Remove all staples. You will find that the generally practicedrule with pad fastening does not render staples on a surface adjacent tothe top material. The new pad is placed with the rear tack bow properlyplaced and properly aligned over the side rail with no pad material appearingbelow the side rail bottom surface. Remove the inside padding materialbefore stapling into place. The pad is then stapled first at the frontbow, then rear tack bow and then the middle (ill. 13). Installthe padding and properly place the outer pad covers as illustrated (ill.13). Apply adhesive to the two surfaces that will meet each other.Allow adhesive to dry before joining. The overlapped seams are then taped.Apply adhesive to the area that will be taped then apply the tape. Installthe top straps using a punch to locate holes in the rear bow (ill.14). Check the distance measurement reference taken from the oppositeside. The strap is stapled to the rear tack strip bow under the pad (ill.14). With the front clamped and the rear latched two notches thestraps and pads should appear taught leaving approximately 1/2 inch clearanceunder the rear bow between it and the body. This Article is Continued. . . . | 1. Remove rear wire-on molding &staples
|
1961 Corvette Soft Top Installation
Continue toNext Page . OR . Corvette How-To IndexCopyright © 1999 Rowley Corvette Supply, Incorporated
All Rights Reserved